Hey all, sorry for the gap between this post and my last post. I recently started an intensive session class called Social Context: History of Contemporary Spain. The class meets for three hours a day, five days a week all of last week and this week. A week from today, however, I will be starting classes with Spanish students at the Universidad de Sevilla. More to come on that subject in the future. Anyway, as promised, I wanted to post about the Sevillano nighttime culture. My last post documented the culinary culture of Seville and provided a brief introduction to the unique schedule of the Sevillano day.
As in America, Sevillanos start the day early with a cup of coffee. Most stores open at around 10 a.m. and remain open until about 2 p.m., when they close for a brief siesta. As previously noted, this siesta is a resting period of a few hours in which Spaniards relax, eat lunch, or sleep. Unlike the drab American workday in which there is a push for constant productiveness, Spaniards allow themselves this siesta period and reopen their stores from 5 p.m. until 7 p.m. So, although Seville is a bustling, active city, there is certainly a sense of "island time" when compared with a teeming, quick-paced metropolis like New York City. Not to mention, many of the Sevillanos stroll carelessly around or leisurely ride their bikes down the cobblestone streets.
Even the nightlife feels the affects of a more eased, airy environment. The tapas bars rarely open before 8:30 p.m. and people milk their slight dinners for hours, finally paying the bill close to 11 o'clock. Next, Sevillano adults might walk around town, window-shopping with the intention of finding the perfect pastry shop to finish the night. As for the Sevillano juveniles, however, the night lasts much longer. Sevillano youths trounce around on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights looking to dance and fraternize. Sadly, in the American college environment, alcohol is the main form of recreation. Students drink to excess and often suffer the consequences. American college kids have the dangerous tendency to drink a lot of alcohol (in the form of shots of hard liquor) in a short amount of time, before stumbling over to parties at on-campus houses or fraternities.
In Spain, however, the adolescent culture is much different. Sure, Sevillanos certainly appreciate socially drinking alcohol, but in a much more reserved, comfortable manner. Rather than rapidly guzzle shots, Sevillanos begin the night with the botellón. The botellón, which translates to "big bottle," is a period in which a group of Spanish youth leisurely drink before moving to a bar or a discoteca. Whereas Americans drink a lot of alcohol in a short period of time, Sevillanos drink less alcohol and pace themselves over a longer stretch. A botellón can take place inside someone's house or in the street. Up until now, I have only experienced smaller botellóns in my own residencia. The past few weeks have seen Spanish college students occupied by the final exams of their first cuatrimestre (semester), but I am told that larger, public botellóns take place when the weather is nice right beside the river. During the botellón, Sevillanos drink wine, Cruzcampo or tinto de verano, a type of sparkling red wine. The botellón is more about socializing than gorging oneself on alcohol.
After the botellón, at around 12:30 a.m. to 1:30 a.m., Sevillanos may move to a bar. Here, the drinking fare is the same, and the goal to socialize, meet new faces and converse with friends remains unchanged as well. The night ends with a romp at the hottest discoteca, of which there are many. These discotecas are like American clubs and formal attire is required. At the discotecas, Sevillanos dance to their favorite music, of which there are many genres. Funnily enough, many discotecas play the same hip hop and pop songs that they play in America. The only differences are that the songs may be out of style in America and the verses of the song are re-recorded in Spanish (though the choruses remain intact). Finally, Sevillanos return home after a long night, at 5 or 6 a.m. They catch up on a little sleep before waking up for classes, counting the minutes until their siesta. Needless to say, drinking is still a popular form of socializing, but there is little pressure on Spanish youth to drink for the sole purpose of getting drunk. Rather, Spanish people drink to calm their nerves and enjoy their friends and their favorite music. Check back soon for a new roll of photos and some more posts before the week's end!
Sunday, January 30, 2011
Monday, January 24, 2011
La comida y la cultura de Sevilla: A Different Culture and Cuisine
FOOD
Hola! So, as promised, here's my blog about the distinct food of Seville. First, a fun fact: Despite all of the beautiful orange trees I've been telling you about, the oranges are never eaten off the tree because of their bitterness. Instead, they are shipped off to England to make English marmalade. Besides from the pungent oranges, the food of Spain is very unique and, oftentimes, very delicious. Rather than eat the traditional light breakfast, progressively bigger lunch and insanely large dinner that characterize American meals, the Sevillanos prefer a fresh, small breakfast, a large lunch, and a quick, light dinner. There is also a merienda, a snack, at around 6 o'clock, but this consists of coffee and a small pastry or nothing at all for those who would rather sleep during the siesta. (The siesta is a resting period from 5 to 7 pm, in which most stores are closed and Sevillanos stay in their houses to nap or relax.) Needless to say, the Sevillano schedule does not facilitate too much snacking. Plus, by a culture of light dinners, Sevillanos are not prone to overeating. Thus, much unlike the American public, EVERYONE in Seville, young and old alike, is fairly thin.
Breakfast, as I mentioned, is light. The common fare consists of a plethora of fresh fruits and cheeses, as well as sliced meats and toast. The favorite cheese of the region is definitely manchego, but there are other cheeses like the French brie and roquefort. As for meat, well, that's the Sevillano specialty. Almost every meal and every dish has some type of pork meat in it. Though there is a Jewish quarter in Seville with beautiful architecture and heritage, it is now known as Santa Cruz (translated as "Holy Cross"). After the Spanish Inquisition and prior pogroms and persecutions, Seville has been mostly devoid of Jews, with the estimated population being currently less than 100, according to one of my tour guides. So, obviously, keeping kosher is not a main concern here. The sliced, cured meat consist of jamón (ham), chorizo (a Spanish pork sausage), a Spanish bacon, and others. As for the fruits, the pineapple, melon and orange seem to be typical for American travellers. Finally, every good Sevillano has to complement his breakfast with a cup or two of coffee and, maybe, a cigarette. One interesting observation is that the coffee is good everywhere. There are countless cafes on each street and they all have great café con leche. Whereas in the U.S., eggs are a staple of a healthy breakfast, eggs are more of a dinner food in Seville.
Lunch, the biggest meal of the Sevillano day, is served in courses. To start, Sevillanos usually eat a soup of beans or lentils or noodles and meat. Of course, there is also the cold gazpacho, a thick, tomato-based soup, sprinkled with hard boiled egg slices and accented with strips of dried ham. Next, the Sevillanos have the main entree portion of their meal. For the main course, there is always some variant of meat, carbohydrates and veggies. Yet, where Americans might have a salad and a sandwich, Sevillanos have a mixed vegetable amalgam with a flavored rice or potato dish and a large slab of meat. Over my stay, I've eaten lunches with baked chicken, Spanish rice with peas, french fries and a Spanish version of ratatouille and other lunches with roast pork chops, a stewed cauliflower and tomato accompaniment, and paella. Lunch and dinner both come with loads of fried foods. From potatoes to calamari to fish nuggets to hard boiled eggs, if you can name it, the Sevillanos can fry it.
Finally, we come to dinner, my personal favorite at home in New York and here in Seville. Though the smaller dinner portions in Seville might seem dissatisfying, they actually leave diners perfectly content and not overly gorged. For dinner, most Sevillanos have a choice between the slightly larger meal at home or the more adventurous nighttime tapa hopping. When staying at home, the Spanish dinner resembles a Spanish lunch in lower quantity. Sevillanos dine on different seafood and, other times, huevos revueltos (scrambled eggs) with mushrooms and ham. Yet, the tapas culture is the more exciting nighttime ritual for tourists and Sevillanos alike. Spanish tapas consist of montaditos (little hand sandwiches) with a type of meat like chorizo, pringá (steak), or ham. Then there are tortillas, egg and potato dishes, salads of mixed, fresh seafood or empanadas. The empanadas are little fried dumplings filled with meat. My personal favorite are croquetas, fried potato dumplings with bits of diced meat. There are also dishes like lomo de cerda, a plate of tiny pork belly medallions, and other meats like roasted chicken. Many of the delicious sandwiches are garnished with salmorejo, a creamy, tomato-based salsa. The standard nighttime drink is either a nice liter of Cruzcampo (the delicious and crisp beer of Seville) or vino tinto (red wine).
I'm enjoying the food here, especially the tapas, and I can't wait to keep exploring the streets of el centro de Sevilla looking for delicious dining! Next up on the blog, an explanation of the unique Spanish horario, or schedule, and the post-tapas nightlife. Adios!
Hola! So, as promised, here's my blog about the distinct food of Seville. First, a fun fact: Despite all of the beautiful orange trees I've been telling you about, the oranges are never eaten off the tree because of their bitterness. Instead, they are shipped off to England to make English marmalade. Besides from the pungent oranges, the food of Spain is very unique and, oftentimes, very delicious. Rather than eat the traditional light breakfast, progressively bigger lunch and insanely large dinner that characterize American meals, the Sevillanos prefer a fresh, small breakfast, a large lunch, and a quick, light dinner. There is also a merienda, a snack, at around 6 o'clock, but this consists of coffee and a small pastry or nothing at all for those who would rather sleep during the siesta. (The siesta is a resting period from 5 to 7 pm, in which most stores are closed and Sevillanos stay in their houses to nap or relax.) Needless to say, the Sevillano schedule does not facilitate too much snacking. Plus, by a culture of light dinners, Sevillanos are not prone to overeating. Thus, much unlike the American public, EVERYONE in Seville, young and old alike, is fairly thin.
Breakfast, as I mentioned, is light. The common fare consists of a plethora of fresh fruits and cheeses, as well as sliced meats and toast. The favorite cheese of the region is definitely manchego, but there are other cheeses like the French brie and roquefort. As for meat, well, that's the Sevillano specialty. Almost every meal and every dish has some type of pork meat in it. Though there is a Jewish quarter in Seville with beautiful architecture and heritage, it is now known as Santa Cruz (translated as "Holy Cross"). After the Spanish Inquisition and prior pogroms and persecutions, Seville has been mostly devoid of Jews, with the estimated population being currently less than 100, according to one of my tour guides. So, obviously, keeping kosher is not a main concern here. The sliced, cured meat consist of jamón (ham), chorizo (a Spanish pork sausage), a Spanish bacon, and others. As for the fruits, the pineapple, melon and orange seem to be typical for American travellers. Finally, every good Sevillano has to complement his breakfast with a cup or two of coffee and, maybe, a cigarette. One interesting observation is that the coffee is good everywhere. There are countless cafes on each street and they all have great café con leche. Whereas in the U.S., eggs are a staple of a healthy breakfast, eggs are more of a dinner food in Seville.
Lunch, the biggest meal of the Sevillano day, is served in courses. To start, Sevillanos usually eat a soup of beans or lentils or noodles and meat. Of course, there is also the cold gazpacho, a thick, tomato-based soup, sprinkled with hard boiled egg slices and accented with strips of dried ham. Next, the Sevillanos have the main entree portion of their meal. For the main course, there is always some variant of meat, carbohydrates and veggies. Yet, where Americans might have a salad and a sandwich, Sevillanos have a mixed vegetable amalgam with a flavored rice or potato dish and a large slab of meat. Over my stay, I've eaten lunches with baked chicken, Spanish rice with peas, french fries and a Spanish version of ratatouille and other lunches with roast pork chops, a stewed cauliflower and tomato accompaniment, and paella. Lunch and dinner both come with loads of fried foods. From potatoes to calamari to fish nuggets to hard boiled eggs, if you can name it, the Sevillanos can fry it.
Finally, we come to dinner, my personal favorite at home in New York and here in Seville. Though the smaller dinner portions in Seville might seem dissatisfying, they actually leave diners perfectly content and not overly gorged. For dinner, most Sevillanos have a choice between the slightly larger meal at home or the more adventurous nighttime tapa hopping. When staying at home, the Spanish dinner resembles a Spanish lunch in lower quantity. Sevillanos dine on different seafood and, other times, huevos revueltos (scrambled eggs) with mushrooms and ham. Yet, the tapas culture is the more exciting nighttime ritual for tourists and Sevillanos alike. Spanish tapas consist of montaditos (little hand sandwiches) with a type of meat like chorizo, pringá (steak), or ham. Then there are tortillas, egg and potato dishes, salads of mixed, fresh seafood or empanadas. The empanadas are little fried dumplings filled with meat. My personal favorite are croquetas, fried potato dumplings with bits of diced meat. There are also dishes like lomo de cerda, a plate of tiny pork belly medallions, and other meats like roasted chicken. Many of the delicious sandwiches are garnished with salmorejo, a creamy, tomato-based salsa. The standard nighttime drink is either a nice liter of Cruzcampo (the delicious and crisp beer of Seville) or vino tinto (red wine).
I'm enjoying the food here, especially the tapas, and I can't wait to keep exploring the streets of el centro de Sevilla looking for delicious dining! Next up on the blog, an explanation of the unique Spanish horario, or schedule, and the post-tapas nightlife. Adios!
Friday, January 21, 2011
Week 1: Touring the City and la Calle Redes
Sorry for the lapse between posts, but I have finally settled in my residencia (my dorm) and only recently got my internet up and running. As a group, the Americans on my trip have explored most of Seville, especially el Centro, where the Universidad de Sevilla and many restaurants, tapas bars and discotecas (dance clubs) are located. While all of the home-stays are in Triana, Remedios, and surrounding neighborhoods on the outskirts of Seville, my residencia is in el Centro. The location is ideal and I am a 15 minute walk from the Universidad de Sevilla. The residencia is of a beautiful, colorful style, almost like an Italian villa. (To the right, there should be links to all of the photos that I have taken so far, including many of my residencia!) My street, which is called Las Redes, is very narrow, beautiful and tranquil, but it's off of a main street called Alfonso 12.
As for my room, I have a single on the third and final floor of the residencia. In my piso (suite) there's a kitchen, a little common area, two small bathrooms, and five singles. My compañeros de piso (roommates) are all males. There's Tellal, an American on the CIEE liberal arts program, and three Sevillanos who attend la Universidad. Their names are Rafa, Rafa and Javi. I haven't had time to get to know them yet because they are all in the midst of studying for their finals. The period of finals is the last week of January and the first week of February. For the Spanish, the finals are extremely important because there are usually no other grades during the entire cuatrimestre (semester). So, I will be able to hang out at night with Javi and the two Rafas soon enough! Besides our floor, there is a floor of 7 American girls below, and the main floor has 2 American girls, 2 French girls (who only speak French and Spanish), a Hungarian (who speaks Spanish, Hungarian, and English), and two Spanish guys, Seba y Pablo, who only speak Spanish. So, while there are many Americans, everyone sticks mostly with Spanish and I am very happy to have so many Spanish kids on my floor in particular.
The reason why I called the bottom floor the "main floor" is because there is un salón (a living room) with red couches. It's actually outside, but there's a roof above it that prevents the rain. I have been hanging out there a lot at night to talk with the Spanish kids. It's a great place to hang out and it's awesome because it's almost like a tiny courtyard. This type of architecture is very typical in Seville.
The best part of my entire residencia, however, is the balcony. My room, though it's small, has a screen that opens to a beautiful gate and a wide open balcony. The balcony is shared by the entire residencia, but I'm the only one with the great view and the direct access (although there's another staircase that leads to it). It provides a great space to hang out and look at the beautiful city. I could not be happier in the residencia and I really like all the surrounding people!
Stay tuned for a post on the nightlife and another on the cuisine and culture!
As for my room, I have a single on the third and final floor of the residencia. In my piso (suite) there's a kitchen, a little common area, two small bathrooms, and five singles. My compañeros de piso (roommates) are all males. There's Tellal, an American on the CIEE liberal arts program, and three Sevillanos who attend la Universidad. Their names are Rafa, Rafa and Javi. I haven't had time to get to know them yet because they are all in the midst of studying for their finals. The period of finals is the last week of January and the first week of February. For the Spanish, the finals are extremely important because there are usually no other grades during the entire cuatrimestre (semester). So, I will be able to hang out at night with Javi and the two Rafas soon enough! Besides our floor, there is a floor of 7 American girls below, and the main floor has 2 American girls, 2 French girls (who only speak French and Spanish), a Hungarian (who speaks Spanish, Hungarian, and English), and two Spanish guys, Seba y Pablo, who only speak Spanish. So, while there are many Americans, everyone sticks mostly with Spanish and I am very happy to have so many Spanish kids on my floor in particular.
The reason why I called the bottom floor the "main floor" is because there is un salón (a living room) with red couches. It's actually outside, but there's a roof above it that prevents the rain. I have been hanging out there a lot at night to talk with the Spanish kids. It's a great place to hang out and it's awesome because it's almost like a tiny courtyard. This type of architecture is very typical in Seville.
The best part of my entire residencia, however, is the balcony. My room, though it's small, has a screen that opens to a beautiful gate and a wide open balcony. The balcony is shared by the entire residencia, but I'm the only one with the great view and the direct access (although there's another staircase that leads to it). It provides a great space to hang out and look at the beautiful city. I could not be happier in the residencia and I really like all the surrounding people!
Stay tuned for a post on the nightlife and another on the cuisine and culture!
Wednesday, January 19, 2011
Day 1: From the British Airways First Class Lounge to el Hotel Hesperia Sevilla
While waiting for my plane from JFK to Madrid to board, I decided to make an economical use of my time and begin my blog. I wrote a lengthy, ponderous reflection about the goals I wished to complete upon my peregrination to Europe. This exercise was a mimicry of a similar exercise I completed my freshman year of high school. My dean told my class to write a letter to our future selves enumerating a list of what we hope to accomplish upon our graduation and the culmination of our high school careers. Upon receiving my letter during my senior year, I felt truly rewarded to see how I had changed and what I had achieved over the span of four short years. So, I decided to do the same list with my goals for Seville. Yet, upon finishing my blog post--which I was thrilled with--the computer at the British Airways First Class Lounge malfunctioned.
Which brings me to the beginning of my journey...
When I entered the JFK Iberia Airlines terminal, I had the great fortune to run into my family friend, John. He worked his magic and was able to escort me into the British Airways First Class Lounge. I dined on cheese tortellini and bourbon beef and almost had time enough for a massage. Needless to say, it was a perfect start and a good omen for my trip abroad. Anyway, my flight on Iberia went swimmingly as well. I sat next to a 23-year old Israeli named Hudi (like "Hootie" and the Blowfish). He spoke to me about his work traveling to and from America to sell cosmetics and his ultimate goal to become a scientist for the Air Force. I enjoyed meeting my first new friend on my trip. As I spoke to Hudi, I remembered all of my goals for my trip to Seville.
1) My first goal is to meet a lot of new people. Obviously, every person can do with more friends, but I would really cherish a good balance of Spanish and American "amigos." Upon my arrival in Seville, I not only met a lot of new Americans, I also got the chance to hang out with our five student guides, all of whom currently live and study in Seville. They were extremely kind and treated us as equals despite the slight language gap, considering every Americans' Spanish was a little rusty.
2) I also want to culturally explore Seville as well as many other European cities. Last night was my first night in Seville, and I was able to walk with a large group of American students and have a nighttime tour of Seville. I love the fact that everything is in walking distance and I was in awe of the beautiful architecture, the narrow cobblestone alleyways and the quaint little restaurants and tapas bars. One particularly gorgeous aspect of the city is the plant life. No matter where you go, on the side of the road grow small orange trees with pungent, plump oranges. One of the local guides advised me in Spanish, "Whatever you do, don't eat the oranges," but the aesthetic of the trees adds to the uniqueness and beauty of the city. The city itself has fantastic gothic and Arabic architecture in its center. Seville was occupied by Arabs and the core of the city (where my dorm is located) used to be encompassed by walls. The University of Seville was made out of a former tobacco factory and has intricate designs as well as a square shape. The aesthetic is amazing and the university itself is in the heart of the city, right by the Guadalquivir River.
3) My third goal is pretty obvious: I want to perfect (or at least have a mastery) of the Spanish language. I would love to be able to converse unabashedly with the locals, who so far seem to be very friendly and fun-loving. As of now, when asked how my Spanish is, I usually respond, "I can understand it pretty fluently, but I'm a little hesitated with my speech." Here in Seville, it's a little difficult to understand the rambling, quick vocation of the locals. Yet, I have asserted myself and spoken a lot with David and Sergio, two of our Sevillano student guides.
4) Finally, I wish to uphold this blog and continue documenting my travels. Hopefully, a lot of accompanying photos will be coming in the future.
To all my family members (and friends) who may be reading this, please know that I'll be thinking of you while I'm abroad and send me an email anytime!
Which brings me to the beginning of my journey...
When I entered the JFK Iberia Airlines terminal, I had the great fortune to run into my family friend, John. He worked his magic and was able to escort me into the British Airways First Class Lounge. I dined on cheese tortellini and bourbon beef and almost had time enough for a massage. Needless to say, it was a perfect start and a good omen for my trip abroad. Anyway, my flight on Iberia went swimmingly as well. I sat next to a 23-year old Israeli named Hudi (like "Hootie" and the Blowfish). He spoke to me about his work traveling to and from America to sell cosmetics and his ultimate goal to become a scientist for the Air Force. I enjoyed meeting my first new friend on my trip. As I spoke to Hudi, I remembered all of my goals for my trip to Seville.
1) My first goal is to meet a lot of new people. Obviously, every person can do with more friends, but I would really cherish a good balance of Spanish and American "amigos." Upon my arrival in Seville, I not only met a lot of new Americans, I also got the chance to hang out with our five student guides, all of whom currently live and study in Seville. They were extremely kind and treated us as equals despite the slight language gap, considering every Americans' Spanish was a little rusty.
2) I also want to culturally explore Seville as well as many other European cities. Last night was my first night in Seville, and I was able to walk with a large group of American students and have a nighttime tour of Seville. I love the fact that everything is in walking distance and I was in awe of the beautiful architecture, the narrow cobblestone alleyways and the quaint little restaurants and tapas bars. One particularly gorgeous aspect of the city is the plant life. No matter where you go, on the side of the road grow small orange trees with pungent, plump oranges. One of the local guides advised me in Spanish, "Whatever you do, don't eat the oranges," but the aesthetic of the trees adds to the uniqueness and beauty of the city. The city itself has fantastic gothic and Arabic architecture in its center. Seville was occupied by Arabs and the core of the city (where my dorm is located) used to be encompassed by walls. The University of Seville was made out of a former tobacco factory and has intricate designs as well as a square shape. The aesthetic is amazing and the university itself is in the heart of the city, right by the Guadalquivir River.
3) My third goal is pretty obvious: I want to perfect (or at least have a mastery) of the Spanish language. I would love to be able to converse unabashedly with the locals, who so far seem to be very friendly and fun-loving. As of now, when asked how my Spanish is, I usually respond, "I can understand it pretty fluently, but I'm a little hesitated with my speech." Here in Seville, it's a little difficult to understand the rambling, quick vocation of the locals. Yet, I have asserted myself and spoken a lot with David and Sergio, two of our Sevillano student guides.
4) Finally, I wish to uphold this blog and continue documenting my travels. Hopefully, a lot of accompanying photos will be coming in the future.
To all my family members (and friends) who may be reading this, please know that I'll be thinking of you while I'm abroad and send me an email anytime!
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