Paris: Napoleon, Gustave and... Fred?

Last weekend, I traveled to France with three friends, deadset on exploring much of the Parisian culture and sampling as much French cuisine as possible.  My time in Paris, while ephemeral, was extremely fulfilling.  My friend, Izzy, and I prepared an intensive itinerary for our trip and we were able to cover a shockingly large amount of Parisian landmarks in but two full days of travel.  Nonetheless, I dream about returning to Paris someday to relive my past journey and to experience more of the history and the landscape.

DAY ONE

La Maison Bacana proved the perfect venue for our stay in Paris.

My friends Izzy, Brit and I arrived at the Orly airport late on Thursday night.  After a quick bus ride and a train ride, we arrived at La Maison Bacana, an absolutely adorable bed and breakfast, to check in.  I usually am not one to toot my own horn, but I take full credit for finding this diamond in the rough.  As most college-aged travelers, I rely on hostelworld.com as a pseudo-biblical source for cheap hostels.  The site ranks hostels in cities across the world based on the reviews and ratings of other travelers.  Surprisingly, there are many fancy, expensive hostels in the world, and I assumed Paris would be no different.  A few weeks back, when I was checking for a good hostel to book for Paris, I--out of pure curiosity--decided to search for the highest rated hostel in Paris.  Assuming to see prices of 60 or 70 euros a night per person, I was shocked to find that the highest rated hostel in all of Paris cost but 25 euros a night per person.  I relayed my findings to my friends who urged me to book the hostel immediately.  So, we arrived at said hostel, La Maison Bacana, on Thursday and were incredibly pleased with our find.  The hostel is much more of a bed and breakfast, operating out of the house of the gay proprietors, Fred and Mand.  The duo was refreshingly kind, genuine and helpful, not at all like the ignorant stereotypes of the uptight, arrogant Parisian.  Each morning, we awoke to the smell of fresh French toast, delectable croissants and hot coffee.  Fred would be there with a smile on his face, telling us in perfect English how to plan our day and pointing out any sites we forgot to include.  He truly showed a passion for his native city, and you could tell that he loved sharing stories and knowledge with all the travelers he meets.  Our hostel, though in Vitry-sur-Seine, a small, rural neighborhood south of the actual city, was right next to an express train and was absolutely ideal.  On hostelworld.com, the ratings should read even higher than the previous 96 percent approval rating, since I made sure to give Fred and Mand 10's across the board.

Our first restaurant in France.

Anyway, after we met our gracious hosts and settled in, the three of us went into the city for our first French meal.  In France, it is very easy to find quaint restaurants with great food.  In fact, most restaurants will offer a prix fixe menu, so one can devour an incredibly filling meal for an affordable price.  Brit, Izzy and I decided to partake in such a menu at a chic restaurant in the Latin Quarter, and we all enjoyed the same three courses: French onion soup with a layer of bread and molten cheese and juicy steak in a peppercorn sauce with roasted potatoes, topped off by profiteroles and the house Bordeaux.  The meal was an excellent, authentic taste of French cuisine, and it gave us the energy to walk parallel to the Seine that night, past some beautiful French landmarks that we would explore more as our trip continued.


DAY TWO

Izzy (left), Brit (right) and I pose along the Seine with Notre Dame looming in the background.

Understanding that we only had two full days in Paris, we rose early to start a fun-filled day.  At this point, our friend Nick was with us, having spent the last two days with one of his friends who is studying in Paris this semester.  The fearsome foursome took the train to Place Saint-Michel, and made our way across the Seine to Notre Dame.  (I would like to note that, while Notre Dame is free to the entire public, we actually were delighted to find that almost every museum and church in Paris is free to students who reside in Europe.  By carrying around our passports and visa, we were able to get in to many places free.  In Spain, on the other hand, there is simply a slight discount offered to students.)  We entered Notre Dame and saw the beautiful stained glass, grandiose organs and lavish altars.  The cathedral was absolutely gorgeous, but not quite as astounding as our next stop.  Earlier, Fred had advised us to find the nearby Sainte-Chapelle, a 13th century, Gothic chapel chartered by King Louis IX.  Nestled between an unassociated facade and the Palais du Justice, Sainte-Chapelle is difficult to uncover.  Yet, it is truly worth the effort as this chapel has some of the most beautiful stained glass I have ever seen.  The entire upper level of the chapel seems to be shaped out of stained glass, with polychromatic religious scenes jumping to life.  The chapel, though small, is a gem among all of the renowned holy structures of the city.

Nick and I stand in front of a gilded altar at Saint-Chapelle.

The gorgeous Jardin du Luxembourg.

Renoir's "Bal du moulin de la Galette."

After getting our fill of churches for the day, we set out for the Jardin du Luxembourg for a picnic lunch.  These beautiful gardens are heavily wooded, with rows of vibrant flowers, picturesque statues and babbling fountains creating a peaceful ambiance.  The gardens are adjacent to the Palais du Luxembourg, the house of the French senate.  We snacked on some delicious sandwiches on crunchy baguettes, taking time to soak in the surrounding scenery.  It was truly a moment to be cherished, especially considering the sites that lay ahead.  Our next stop was the Musée d'Orsay.  Along the way, we met up with my friend Chris Davis, who I had seen one week prior in Belgium.  Chris is studying in Paris and, although he had been to the d'Orsay a number of times before, he decided to come along and give us a little history about the building and the artwork it holds.  The Musée d'Orsay was originally a train station, so it has large clock faces and an open main area that make it a prime venue to house art.  Inside, the museum is brimming with famous pieces by legendary artists like Vincent Van Gogh, Paul Gauguin, Edgar Degas, Claude Monet, Édouard Manet, Pierre-Auguste Renoir and Paul Cézanne, to name a few.  Thus, the museum is known for its wide collection of impressionists and it is truly a wonder to behold.  Unfortunately, photography is prohibited in the museum, but my lackluster photography skills would not do justice the building anyway.  My favorite pieces were the well-known pieces by Van Gogh, his "Self-Portrait" and his "The Siesta," as well as "Bal du moulin de la Galette" by Renoir, James McNeill Whistler's painting of his mother, "Whistler's Mother," any of the paintings of ballet dancers by Degas as well as all of the countless Gauguin paintings of nude French Polynesian women.  Out of those, my favorite was Van Gogh's "The Siesta," an iconic piece showing two farmboys snoozing amongst haystacks.  The museum was absolutely fantastic, and it was great to have a seasoned veteran like Chris navigating our walk through the building.

Van Gogh's "The Siesta.

The majestic Eiffel Tower.

We followed up the Musée d'Orsay with a quick coffee and a Nutella crepe to refuel before the main attraction for the night: the Eiffel Tower.  One of the most celebrated, manmade landmarks in the entire world, the Eiffel Tower was built by Gustave Eiffel at the end of the 19th century for the Exposition Universelle World's Fair and stands over 1,000 feet tall.  Now, the tower stands as a symbol of romance and everything French.  In fact, as we waited in line for tickets to enter and scale the structure, we heard some American voices behind us.  A beautiful young woman and a strapping young gentleman were smiling and seemingly floating on air.  The woman was on the phone talking emotionally and hurriedly with her mom as the man could not keep his hand off of his lady's waist, shoulders and hand.  We eavesdropped and discerned that the young man had just popped the question.  So, we offered our congratulations and went with happy hearts to ascend to the top of the tower via elevator.  Once up there, we had some unmatched views of the city of Paris.  Furthermore, we arrived at the top right around sunset, thus the entire sky radiated pink and gold.  We waited atop the tower for a little while longer and saw as all of Paris simultaneously grew dark.  As darkness swept over the cityscape, we watched intently as the entire city came to life, brilliantly illuminating in one instance.  Suddenly, the four of us realized the reason why Paris is nicknamed "The City of Light."

 

The view from the top of the Eiffel Tower.

Moulin Rouge means "Red Windmill."

Believe it or not, our first day was not done yet.  We had one final stop on our agenda: taking the metro to Montmartre.  Montmartre was depicted in the films entitled "Moulin Rouge," including the 2001 version with Ewan McGregor and Nicole Kidman.  The title refers to an actual cabaret (which we managed to visit) and all of Montmartre is known for its nightlife.  Yet, the neighborhood also has a rich history as a hub for artists, including Pablo Picasso and Camille Pisarro.  The real reason we went to this area, which is on a large hill on the outskirts of France, was to catch a glimpse of the Sacré-Cœur, a grand, domed basilica on the very summit of the hill.  The Sacré-Cœur did not disappoint, but we did not linger since we were ravenous at this point.  We caught a late prix fixe dinner in which I had French onion soup (again), roasted chicken and chocolate mousse.  After that, we decided to retire and get some sleep because we had a similarly jam-packed day planned for tomorrow.

Sacrebleu! It's the Sacré-Cœur!

DAY THREE

Our group in front of I.M. Pei's pyramid at the Louvre.

One wing of the Louvre.

The Venus de Milo.

Someone gets in the way of my "Winged Victory" shot.

As we had done the first morning, we woke up early to the aroma of French coffee and some carrot cake pastries.  Fred gave us the lowdown for the day and, once again, we expected to have quite a busy day.  Yet, we set out with high spirits and took the train to our first stop: the Louvre.  The Louvre is unique in that, not only is it one of the paramount art museums in the world, but it is housed in the magnificent Palais du Louvre, the former royal palace of the French monarchs until Louis XVI moved his quarters to Versailles.  The building is massive, as many wings have been added over time.  The last French monarch, Napoleon III, connected the Palais du Tuileries with the Palais du Louvre.  Thus, when one walks around the museum, he realizes that the building itself is an unbelievable work of art in its own right.  The high ceilings often have idealized frescoes and there is decorative ornamentation covering the walls and doorways.  Inside the palace walls, there are several vast pavilions, including one pavilion with I.M. Pei's iconic glass pyramid.  This pyramid also allows art-lovers into the museum, making it the most original and innovative museum entrance in the world.  Once inside, the magnitude of the works on display is overwhelming.  There are three different wings, each with its own appealing collections and each with its own character.  Since we had but one more day to enjoy Paris, we decided to view the pieces that make the Louvre such a celebrated museum.  We went to the Ancient Greek, Etruscan and Roman antiquities exhibit where we saw sculptures dating back as far as the 3rd century B.C.  The obvious highlights were "Venus de Milo," a Greek sculpture depicting the Greek goddess of love, Aphrodite.  The statue is remarkably well-preserved considering it dates back to the years 100 B.C., yet the goddess is missing her arms.  The other notable piece is "Winged Victory," a similarly well-preserved sculpture with one noticeable blemish: the sculpture is missing its head.  The sculpture depicts the Greek goddess of victory, Nike, with its wings outstretched.  Yet, the sculpture is emphasized by its fantastic placement in the museum, it is visible from all angles at the top of a long staircase and it can be readily viewed from many different hallways and many different vantage points.

The "Mona Lisa" is much smaller than one might expect.  It is also housed behind thick glass.

Eugène Delacroix's "Liberty Leading the People."

Yet, my favorite collection was the painting collection.  From Italian painters like Raphael, Titian and Bellini to French painters like Jacques-Louis David to Dutch painters like Johannes Vermeer and Rembrandt, the collection is diverse and astonishing.  Obvious highlights include Leonardo Da Vinci's world-renowned "Mona Lisa," Raphael's portrait of "Baltasar de Castiglione," Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres' "The Bather," and, my personal favorite, "Liberty Leading the People," a 19th century piece by Eugène Delacroix that personifies the spirit of the people during the French Revolution.  After surveying as much artwork as possible, we went to another wing of the Louvre to see the apartments of Napoleon III.  As I mentioned before, Napoleon III was the last monarch of France.  He is not to be confused with his uncle, Napoleon Bonaparte, the famous French emperor and military mastermind.  Yet, Napoleon III is arguably as important as his notorious uncle in French history.  Napoleon III was famous for his policies of industrialization that reconstructed the Parisian cityscape and molded it into our modern perspective of Paris.  His apartments are the well-preserved rooms in which the monarch actually resided.  Thus, we got to experience Napoleon III's lavish lifestyle, realized in gilded walls, crystalline chandeliers, sprawling murals and ornate vases.

Brit and I in front of Napoleon III's dining room.

The Tuileries Garden.

 Finally, we were forced to leave the Louvre in order to stay on schedule.  As we had done the day prior, we decided to picnic in a park.  The adjacent Tuileries Garden was the perfect setting to snack on a sandwich and some French quiche.  We roamed the beautiful garden walkways, canopied by sizable trees and flanked by flowers and statues.  Since it was a sunny day, we had to walk for quite some time before we found a bench on which to eat, but we did not mind promenading around the gorgeous greenery.  After our relaxing lunch, we made our way to Les Invalides.  Les Invalides is a huge museum complex which houses relics, memorabilia and tombs all related to the military history of the French people.  Inside, we walked past glass cases containing uniforms, artillery and even horse equipment dating back from the middle ages chronologically until World War II.  There were even outfits and medals donned by some of Napoleon's closest confidantes.  Yet, the true draw to the museum was the Chapel of Saint-Louis-des-Invalides.  This chapel is covered by a large dome and stands out from the Seine.  The beautiful chapel is not only notable for its iconography, yet it is also the home to some famous sarcophagi and tombs.  The vaults are cluttered with the remains of French military hero, but the focal point of the chapel is an enormous tomb made out of red stone atop green granite.  The tomb is encircled on all sides by romanticized statues of women, each representing a different quality such as faith or hope.  Resting inside the tomb itself are the ashed remains of Napoleon Bonaparte and his wife, Josephine.  Seeing the tomb of a man with so much power and resonance in world history was surreal.  I would certainly recommend the museum for its chapel alone, but the actual exhibits were well done, too.

Les Invalides.

Napoleon's Tomb at Les Invalides.

Our group in front of the Arc de Triomphe.

My Sevilla friends and Tufts friends enjoy a night out.

Our final stop of the day was a leisurely stroll down the Champs Élysées culminating in a marvelous view of the Arc de Triomphe.  Actually, we had all desired to go to the Musée Rodin to see the sculptures of Auguste Rodin, including "The Thinker," but we had gotten caught up at the Louvre and Les Invalides and simply ran out of time.  The Musée Rodin closes early on Saturday, at 5:45 p.m.  The Champs Élysées is certainly worth seeing for its glitz and glam, but it is clearly overwrought with tourists and outrageously priced retailers and dining.  The true appeal to the avenue is its end, where the beautiful Arc de Triomphe towers stands tall in the middle of a busy intersection.  The Arc was conditioned by Napoleon in the early 19th century after the Battle of Austerlitz, one of Napoleon Bonaparte's greatest victories.  As the ancient Romans had done before him, Napoleon decided to welcome home his victorious troops to the sight of a giant monument constructed in their honor.  Since their is traffic swarming around the Arc, you must pass through an underground tunnel to arrive under the massive structure.  Once there, the four of us met up with my friend Chris as well as two of my other Tufts friends, Johnny and Adam.  Together, we rode the metro to a traditional French restaurant called Le Relais de l'Entrecôte.  The wait staff at l'Entrecôte is comprised totally of middle-aged women, wearing French maid outfits.  They hustle and bustle around the restaurant serving the same thing to each table: first a simple iceberg salad with some warm rolls, followed by two hefty helpings of steak frites smothered in the famous restaurant sauce.  The meal was absolutely delicious and extremely filling.  Yet, everyone made sure to save a little room for some of the richest chocolate cake any of us had ever ingested.  The restaurant was a testament to the fine cuisine and culture of Paris.  Finally, we ended the night back at the Eiffel Tower.  From 9 o'clock p.m. to 1 o'clock a.m. on the hour, the Eiffel Tower lights glitter for a show lasting about five to seven minutes.  Sitting on the grass under the starlit sky of Paris, watching the Eiffel Tower glimmer effortlessly was a luxurious ending to quite an accomplishing trip.  I cannot wait to return to the City of Light and, when I do, I will probably call up Fred and Mand to see if there is some space available.

The Eiffel Tower illuminates the Parisian skyline.